Gough Island History Excursion

As mentioned last week we were hoping to make our way to The Glen. The location of the first scientific base which was established in 1956.
This week I am delighted to report that we successfully made our way to this historical sight with relative ease, and were able to enjoy this remarkable opportunity to delve into Gough's history and further explore this incredible Mountain in the Sea.


19th January- Karen and Sylvain departed the morning for Goneydale where they spent the day marking out Tristan Albatross nests for this years breeding season. A large number of the birds are already incubating eggs and will be monitored regularly. This will mean frequenting Goneydale for monitoring purposes. Something I wish to assist with.
It was agreed that they would spend the evening there and Jack and myself would join up with them the following morning.

Goneydale

20th January- Jack and myself departed the base at around 05:00 en route to Goneydale to meet up with Karen and Sylvain. This is significant as Jack was working night shift and only finished up at 03:00, and myself, well I just couldn't sleep. We were up at 04:00 to finish packing and getting the last couple things together before departing.
We hoped to be at Goneydale by 08:00 at the latest, but with Jack leading the way at a ferocious pace we managed the walk in a little over 2 hours. This with our fully loaded packs. Although I am not certain on the distance this still seemed pretty impressive.
Upon our arrival we were greeted by Sylvain who had only just woken up. So our timing was pretty much spot on.
We then got the last couple things we needed from the container and were on our way again at about 08:00.
This time Karen and Sylvain had managed to get more accurate information on which route to take and we set off down a ridge into the valley so we could follow the river toward the coast. We were all tremendously excited and ready to go. Not knowing what we were in for just added to that feeling.

The route to The Glen

We made our way down the ridge to where we had to access the river which we needed to follow. This was not as easy as it may sound, as most points of access to the river were too high and too steep. So we spent close on an hour searching for an access point. Eventually Jack's keen eye traced a path down another ridge toward the main river that we had to get to. But this meant crossing over a smaller river which was also made difficult by steep drops. Faced with this problem Sylvain set about investigating various access points that were pointed out from a higher vantage point. Eventually we found a relatively easy point where we could descend toward the river we were required to cross to reach the ridge we needed to take toward the primary river.

View from the top. Hags Tooth in the distance.

Once this was achieved it was relatively easy going. We arrived at the river we had to follow for the rest of the journey and once again had to find a way down to the waters edge. Fortunately the height of the vertical edges dropping off to the river were more manageable and we were able to access the water with some team work.
Once on the river it was a combination of boulder hopping and pushing through thick vegetation high up on the river banks to bypass the many waterfalls we encountered. But moving from the river up and down the banks was never easy due to the steep and slippery slopes which bank the river. Clearly, many many years of rapid flowing water has carved out a deep trench which the river now flows, and now makes for a challenging hike.

Looking up the valley from where we came.

We continued on our way and at around 14:30 we caught sight of an Antarctic Turn. Our first indication that we must be very close, as they nest amongst the rocks close to the sea shore.
A little further down we heard the distinctive call of the Rockhopper penguins and soon we startled one of the seals which were basking in the sun. Yet, all this told us was that we were now close to the coast, but were we at The Glen?! We soon breathed a sigh of relief when we saw a old pipe running along the banks of the river.
We had finally arrived! We made it!

Arrival at The Glen

Further down the river we walked toward the beach where we were soon startled and amazed at the sheer size of the fully grown elephant seal bull that was basking in the warmth of the suns rays. Seems to be par for the course when Jack and I find an elephant seal. Forever being surprised by them!

Elephant seal bull.

We were also treated to seeing a young elephant seal pup as well as an adult cow, and another large bull making his way out into the water.
This amongst the masses of fur seals and rock hopper penguins.

Elephant seal pup

We explored the beach and examined the remains of the old base and the caves that the sealers had carved out hundreds of years ago. We were all so awestruck at what we were seeing.
The greatest sense of irony was found in seeing the seals now living in the caves that were carved out by the people that used to hunt them for their fur.
Amazing to see how nature has regained control in our absence, and again dominates the landscapes that we changed. How they have settled in to live amongst the remains of our impact.

Sealers caves

The contrast of the old base remains against the surrounds

Engraving from G5 in 1960

Exploring the surrounds

21st January- 09:00 Tents are taken down, breakfast of biscuits and Milo eaten and we are off again.
Fortunately the trip back up was proving to be easier than the trip down Perhaps cause we knew which route to take and didn't have to spend time searching for access points.
This meant we were able to rest more frequently and take full advantage of the fantastic weather that we had over the course of our trip which made the scenery just jump to life around us.

Relaxing on the trip back.

One of the many amazing waterfalls.

At around 13:00 we arrived back at the container in Goneydale. Pleasantly surprised by the time we made in getting out of the valley, we sat and enjoyed a relaxed lunch of pilchards and provitas. Gourmet food in the field.

By 14:30 we were on our way again for the final stretch from Goneydale to the base where we knew a warm shower and hot meal would awaited our return. We arrived safely at the base at 17:30 where we then regaled our story to the rest of the team over a warm meal and chocolate cake.
Rounded off another epic adventure.


There is already talk of the next big trip. Possibly a 3 day trip to the highest peak on the island. Edinburgh peak. Need to make this happen before things get too cold, wet and windy, and we are still treated to spells of sunny weather. By the sounds of things this will take place in February. In the meanwhile I will have to satisfy my craving for mountain air by climbing Tafelkoppie and Mount Zeus as well as finding time to assist Karen and Sylvain up in Goneydale.

Lets wait and see what happens between now and next week.


 

Our friend the Subantarctic fur seal (Arctocephalus tropicalis)

At last something more zoological in nature.

Quick background as to how and why I am here on Gough, and why I enjoyed this weeks activities so much.

June 2010 I applied to go to Marion Island (Google is your friend) as a sealer or birder. Any role as a field biologist would have been great. But I was unfortunate that they had already filled all the spots on the team that was to be departing in March/April 2011. I initially applied as it was a great opportunity to get valuable working experience in the field I had studied.
But despite not making it too Marion, I was later contacted and asked if I would like to apply for a position as a metkassie here on Gough. I figured this is a good an opportunity as any, why not?!
I reasoned that despite not working full time in my field of study I would still be able to do a bit of networking and assist with some of the biological projects that are on the go.
On the way over I set about chatting to as many people as possible who had plans on doing research on the island. And it paid off. I got a better acquainted with a couple of the major role players and volunteered to assist in any way possible.
This turned out to be a pretty successful approach and I was later told by a senior lecturer from the University Of Pretoria, that he would like to monitor the seal population on the island.
Something that they try do each year, but generally proves to be rather difficult due to a lack of volunteers.
It is not exactly a full time job, and I am only required to head out once or twice a month to collect scat samples or weigh seal pups. None the less, when opportunity knocks, you answer. So I did.
Now looking at it from my current position I am rather lucky. I have been given the opportunity to gain a knew skill and learn more about another scientific discipline (meteorology), as well as do a bit of research in the field in which I studied, and ultimately gain the valuable work experience I have been seeking for some time now. All of this in one of the most remote places on earth. A very unique opportunity indeed, and one for which I am extremely grateful.

This past week I had to start with the first round of weighing for this seasons pups. The seal pups are around 30 days old and now we needed to establish an average weight for males and females at this point. It's a pretty simple exercise which is made tricky by the terrain.
I knew what I was in for as I was already exposed to this late in September during the takeover period, shortly after our arrival. So I had a firm grasp of what needed to be done.
I recruited the services of my trusty colleague Jack and we made our way down to a beach called "Tumble down". It's a half hour walk from the base which is made slightly awkward by the vegetation having grown due to all the rain recently. At a few points we lost the path and had to guess where it could be, eventually returning to it. Once we arrived at the cliff we could not find the rope to access the beach. This also thanks to the wild growth of the vegetation. What a start it was proving to be. But not allowing ourselves to become disheartened we searched and succeeded in finding the rope and made our way down to the beach which is about 25 meters down.

Tumble Down 

Tumble Down Beach

Amongst all the penguin chicks which are currently in molt we made our way in a flurry of blowing feathers to a rocky beach which is a favourite pupping ground. The walk was less than ideal as you step over large boulders close to the waters edge and try to navigate amongst the maze of sleeping  seals. Full grown males which tend to be rather grumpy when woken up. Fortunately they shuffle off with only a growl and a bark and allow us to pass. Can still be rather unnerving when you step from one boulder to the other and there is a seal sneakily napping between them. A startled seal means an angry seal. Good thing we took along a strong stick just in case. Which was useful on more than one occasion.

Penguin chick in molt

Penguin chick just before molting

We eventually started seeing one or two fluffy black pups and we could get to work.
We had to weigh 50 males and 50 females for a good sample group.
How we go about weighing the seals can be rather risky as we obviously have to pick them up. This means you run the risk of being bitten. So it requires caution and commonsense. At this point it's not to bad due to the pups being rather slow. But as they get bigger this changes.
Generally we quickly grab a  hind flipper, on the odd occasion if it is aware of what is going on we will push the head a way with a boot and grab the flipper preventing it from turning and biting.

Grab the flipper

The seal is then held up by the flipper as a length of sliding rope is fastened around the flipper and the seal then suspended by this.

Rope fastened around the flipper

Hang from scale

 
It's as easy as that, and not painful for the seal at all. The only reason they may occasionally shuffle and shake is due to the confusion of being woken and hoisted off the ground so suddenly. Mostly they are pretty cooperative which makes things much easier.
Easy as all of this sounds it does get rather tough when you are surrounded by the larger adults, are standing on a very uneven surface with a seal swinging about at just arms length away. This explains the rip in my pants and the teeth marks on my boots.
And after about the 50th seal, 6 kilos does begin to get rather heavy. Not complaining though. It just meant Jack could take over for a while whilst I wrote up the data.
We managed around 70 pups at Tumble Down and had to try find some more. We then made our way back to the top off the cliff and headed to Seal Beach to get the remainder for the sample group.
We were rather shocked when we only found 2 pups. As during September we had very little trouble finding more. We may not have found many pups but we were rather startled by a large elephant seal.
We had just come around a large boulder and were looking up the beach for any pups when we were greeted by a snort. Our presence had surprised him just as much as his surprised us, and saw Jack and myself jumping a few feet back in the opposite direction.
Once we realised what was going on we took a closer look and relished the opportunity to get up close for a few photos.

Elephant seal bull

Seeing as we had no luck at seal beach we realised we would have to come down the next day and walk further around from Seal Beach toward the opposite side of Tumble Down to get the remainder. After yesterdays effort this was considerably easier. Although most of the time was spent walking to get to the pupping grounds Jack and I got to enjoy one of the few sunny and warm days whilst also stumbling across an Antarctic Turn. What a pleasure it was to be able to get up close to such a striking bird. Was the highlight of the day, next to watching a pup chase after Jack after he had just placed it back down.

Antarctic Turn

 
Was a great time away from the base and I thoroughly enjoyed being able to do some more scientific work. It also really helped for both of us to unwind.
Like a said last week, it's like living in the Twilight Zone. We unwind by doing hard work.
Lets hope that we can find a little bit more hard work to balance things out!

As for next week. Well, hopefully I will be able to spend the weekend at The Glen. Return trip is planned for Friday.
This is made all the more exciting having read about the very first scientific team that built a base at the Glen, in the book "Mountains in the Sea" authored by the team leader of the scientific survey team: Martin Holdgate.
Here's hoping for good weather and the opportunity to share in some of Gough's rich history.

Relaxing in the twilight zone

I just had this realisation that things over here work inversely to things back home.
It's like the twilight zone...

But before I go any further it is extremely important that I wish someone very special a happy birthday. If it wasn't for her, I wouldn't be here. And i don't mean on Gough!
Happy Birthday, Mom!
Thanks for all your love and support. You are so much more than anyone could ever ask for in a loving mother, and I hope your birthday can see that love that you show to so many, come flooding over you, today and forever more.

I figure that as soon as we start hearing reports of busyness and the new year rush at home we decide to take a bit of a breather and settle down and take a break. Whilst the holiday season seemed to be madness on the island whilst it was pretty relaxed for everyone else.
Well thank goodness we need not worry to much about being stressed and worried. The holiday season has finally come to and end, and that means ours ha once again begun.

Alright that seems like a bit of an exaggeration. We do work pretty hard, and when you have this much time alone you eventually find that pondering life can be rather intense work in itself. Sounds silly, but it becomes a full time job. And basically watching the world flying by whilst we are pretty much static can be rather unnerving. Will often find myself staring out and wanting to jump back on to the roller coaster the next time it comes around. But that's not happening right now. So I have made up my mind to be happy on the slower kids ride for now.
It's rather pleasant to watch the world spin and not get so dizzy. Hopefully this will help me deal with the motion in future, by becoming more aware of it.

It has been an extremely relaxed week. Hence the ramblings.
Was filled with the usual activities of food, music, work and a movie or two. Although there were a couple moments of excitement in trying to organise things with looming deadlines.
We had some drama over the use of the crane and were unsure whether we were allowed to have things sent over with the fishing boat "The Edinburgh".

The Fishing Vessel Edinburgh

The crane, down at "Crane Point" (Creative name hey)

We use the crane to hoist things up from dinghy's on to the island. But there are reports that the crane is unstable. It seems pretty stable though. But that's beside the point. 
It was then decided at the last minute that we were allowed to make use of the crane as we urgently required spares for the walk in freezers. It was then agreed that we could also receive personal packages as we were going to be hoisting stuff up anyway. It was then a mad rush to get things together and have them shipped down to Cape Town at the last minute. But thank goodness for determination and efficiency of one very special person, and all was ready right on time. This with the help of Internet Express couriers who managed to get the parcel down to Cape Town (Yes, free advertising)
Made it feel like the kiddies ride got turned up a notch. Was fun! But, all has calmed back down. Sjoe, not used to such excitement.
But there is still excitement as I now anxiously await my special parcel. Can't wait for my surprise!!!

What I did manage was a brief walk to a lovely look out spot before our monthly metkassie meeting.
Was up early and off I went. Up the Taffelkoppie path (again) Just to get out and stretch the legs.

Fine weather for  a short walk

Metkassie...I like clouds. (Stratocumulus)

Got back in time for our meeting where we decided on a new work roster.
We are going to give the 48 hour shift a try. So two days shifts and night shifts in one go and then 4 days off. Sounds extreme but we all reckon it can be achieved...
Provided we sleep in the breaks we have between observations. So will see how that goes.
Also spent 4 hours making puff-pastry for homemade chicken pie. That was quite an achievement!

That's it really. Relaxed week over here and very little to report. Everyone is cool and composed and
Next week should be better as I need to go out and start with this seasons seal pup weighing. But more details on that next week.
 

Spiderman, Hobos, Birds, Weather and Bubbly

Happy birthday to me and a happy new year to everyone reading!

Well it was my birthday last week and I mentioned I would write something about it. Although it will be very brief! Our trip to Tafelkoppie was far more entertaining and interesting.

I must admit, I woke up on the 27th December rather grumpy. Yes it was my birthday, but it just wasn't feeling like it. I was up until about 4am because my body has now decided that that is when it should be up until. All thanks to the wonders of night shifts. I wonder if I will ever get used to this. Either way, will have to grin and bare! I suppose honesty is the best policy, and the grumpiness was also due to missing all my family and friends back home. But that had to pass!
But back to what I was saying. Birthday! I'll be honest and reveal all. At 26, I am the "baby" of the team. I'm the spring chicken with much to learn and much I hope to learn. So far I am getting what I wanted.
Once I got some energy into my tired bones and was able to pry open my eyes, I was greeted by secret surprises most to me! After my grumpy start it really cheered me up. Despite making me miss home, it still put a smile on my face knowing that even though there is this immense distance between us, I still have the thoughts, love and support from my loved ones.

Got all sorts of great party stuff as gifts so I could get the festivities going. Balloons, Party Poppers, streamers and hats. Even got some special cupcake mix and candles to complete things and really make it a proper party. Was brilliant and it left me with the biggest smile.

Upon leaving my room to get something to nibble before a slow amble to Admirals for some peace and quiet and fresh air, I was greeted by Jack who was baking a cake. And what an impressive cake it was. 4 layers of mouthwatering chocolate goodness, wrapped up in a creamy vanilla icing. But, I have to say that the sentiment in the Spider-man cupcakes just made them that much sweeter-Sorry Jack.

Spider-man Cupcakes. WINNER!!!

Once I returned I was congratulated by everyone as I bumped into them during the day. For that, I want to say thank you and express how much I appreciated the wishes from my great island family.

Thanks for the cake J-man. Was great!

Eventually it was down to dinner and then off to the bar for a little bit of a hobo themed celebration.
Turned out to be a great evening and a great birthday. Definitely one I will remember for many years to come.
Thanks everyone for making me feel like a king for a day!

Admirals

 

Also a big thank you to all the people at home and all over who called and sent messages. You all helped make it a really special day! I am truly blessed with amazing family and friends. Love you all heaps!

The next couple days were pretty relaxed. Everyone was trying to gather their energy after the busyness of the days prior. And some of the team needed all the energy they could get as they had planned a trip to "The Glen" where they would spend 2 nights.
This is a one day hike up Tafelkoppie, then across to South Peak and down the valley toward the coast.

View of Gough House and the helipad from half way up Tafelkoppie.

The Glen is right along the coast on the eastern side of the island and is the place where the first base was established in 1956. Prior to that, this was also the place where the sealers from the 1800's used to camp in caves that they had carved out. And it was in these caves that the team of intrepid explorers hoped to stay. It is the only beach where it is possible to land a small dinghy ashore and this is the reason for it being the sight of the original base and landing point for all other coming ashore.
Although this sounds like an extremely exciting trip, I'm sad to say that I was unfortunately not one of the individuals who went, or at least attempted to get there.
Our biologists, Karen and Sylvain lead the trip and were accompanied by Jack and Marius.
they had planned to reach the Glen in one day and spend two nights before returning.
Sunette and myself on the other hand had decided that regardless of the weather we would accompany them as far as South Peak. Well that didn't happen. Not to say that we didn't accompany them, it was just not as far as we had hoped. The weather was just not in our favour. When we left the base that morning the sun was awkwardly hiding behind the clouds, but once we got near the top it had abandoned us altogether and left us with a steady stream of drizzle and then rain. Sunette and I went as far as Tafelkoppie and then had to wish them well as they went on, and we turned and headed back. We were all to keen to go on further, but the mist was far too thick, and there was great concern about us not finding our way back without the GPS. We were not disappointed in the least, cause just after they left we stumbled across a Tristan Albatross, happily sitting in the rain and prepared to pose for some photos.
That's to add to the Sooty albatross mother with chick, Gough Bunting (which is endemic to the island) and another muddier Tristan Albatross, that we saw on the way up. Was proving to be a very exciting trip irrespective of the weather and the fact that we were not headed all the way to The Glen. And It only got better still. 

Sooty Albatross with chick.

Gough Bunting. You won't see this little fella at home. Or anywhere else for that matter.

On our way back down we had some good laughs as we almost lost our gum boots in the mud and stumbled and fell, opposed to walking back down. There was even someone who thought it a good idea to roll down one section. This contributed to the amusement factor greatly. Thanks G56 for the new Tafelkoppie tradition!

Jack with the inquisitive, yet dirty; Tristan Albatross

And still the rain didn't help. The female Tristan is darker than the male.

Male Tristan Albatros.

Up the valley from the Golden Highway

Down the valley from the Golden Highway

Incredible waterfall discovery with Sunette.

As we went down further we arrived at what is called the Golden Highway. This is a section in the valley where the path goes along the river and provides for some great views up toward the mountain through the valley, as well as down toward the coast. Once we arrived at the highway we decided to follow the river just that little bit further and skip the path out the valley. Probably the best decision we made, as not more than 30 meters from where the path peels away from the highway, the river cascades over a ledge some 20 meters high to form a spectacular waterfall. We took a look around and managed to find a way to get to the bottom and still get out again. This definitely proved to be the highlight of the walk regardless of the weather.

At the top of the waterfall.

We managed our way out of the valley and got back onto the path and easily enough and made it back to base, with one or two awkward falls and time to spare.
What a great walk it turned out to be. Especially after so many days of disappointment because of the weather. Still the weather was not on our side and we had to skip the incredible view, but everything else more than made up for it. Can't wait for the next trip. Although I would prefer we have sunny skies and can enjoy the mesmerising view!

Our "Glen" team. From left to right: Karen, Sylvain, Jack, Marius.

Oh, and the team of intrepid explorers sadly didn't make it to the Glen because of the poor visibility, slipery conditions and the uncertainty of whether they were on the correct path or not. So rather not risk it, they had to find a spot to set up camp and make there way back the next day. Still they had an exciting time and plenty stories to tell upon their safe return. 
There is talk of another expedition to the Glen when the weather is better. Really hope to tag along for that one. Holding thumbs!

New years was quiet at the base with only Gerard, Sunette, Leo and myself. We all sat around for some of Leonard's legendary apricot spare ribs and then watched "Happy Feet" (Penguins are an obsession for all of us here) and then spent the remainder of 2011 in the bar and welcomed in the new year together with a glass of bubbly.
Seeing as I was working and had to stay awake I had a Leonard and Sunette volunteer to keep me company until 3am. They did well to make it till 02:30 despite the long day. And that was how I was able to end off an incredible year! Pretty sure that 2012 will produce some legendary moments for all of us.
So, cheers to what was a great 2011, and what is going to be a blessed 2012.

Sunette and Marius en route to Tafelkoppie.

Waterfall.

Down into a misty valley from Tafelkoppie