Moving along

Morning view.

Hard to believe that we are already already half way through the year and I'm half way through my couple days off work.
Feels like just yesterday that I was riding around Johannesburg and then walking across Albatross Plain watching the little chick emerging from the safety of his egg to brave the world.
Makes me think that's what it may be like when I arrive back home. Gough has become this little egg. Kept me isolated from what happens outside allowing me to grow and mature, and as soon as I arrive home it will be like hatching. Breaking out to see this magnificent world that is seemingly so unfamiliar. It's exciting, yet rather daunting.
Got to wonder how much one loses touch with reality when living in isolation.
Let's hope not too much, because it's getting closer and closer to the end, and appears to be happening faster and faster.
I am told that things really start moving from now. Scary thought actually!
Will be hatching and will then discover if we have all grown and developed enough to face what awaits us outside this thin shell.

We get on with life and do what needs to be done. And this past week what needed to be done was seal weighing.
Jack and I were at it again.
Was a rather busy day. Was up early as I was on day shift, then was into skivvy to clean the base, then racing to get all the gear ready to go weigh the pups, chasing to catch up to the rest of the team so we could get a few tries for our team photo, then having to get to Tumble Down, weigh all the seals and get back to base in time to start cooking dinner. All the while hoping the clouds that were blotting out the warm sun would hold off just long enough to allow us to stay dry.

Was an extremely busy and tiring day.

But I'll tell you how the seals went. Something always happens when weighing seals, or leaving the base in general for that matter.

Arrived at the access rope and started my decent down toward the beach. Nice and slow, and then the soft ground gives out underneath my feet. Sees me griping to the rope as tight as possible to stop myself falling. Didn't work out as hoped, and still I kept sliding all the while being alerted to the burning sensation rushing from my hand. Lovely start to the day. Rope burn on the fingers and almost taking a nasty tumble. Guess I would take sore hands over a sore body any day.
Upon finishing my decent I touched down amongst a flurry of feathers from the rockhoppers, which  are once again moulting. This being the remainder of the colony that was still out at sea when moulting took place in January. This group included a very unique looking individual which had rather unusual colouration. Where the rest of the penguins are black along the flippers and back, this unique individual was white. Karen mentioned that they had seen another individual similarly coloured at Seal Beach on a previous occasion.

Peculiar penguin.

Interesting looking indeed

After this observation and taking hold of the fact that I had safely made it onto more horizontal ground despite the unfortunate incident, I thought back to skivvy duty earlier that morning and the mouse I had to catch. How just after catching it by the tail it made one last gasp attempt for freedom, and snapped back and bit my finger. Obviously I dropped it and it scuttled off with a new lease on life.
Not painful, so much as it is annoying.
This thought along with the burning sensation which was coursing through my hand had me wondering if this was a precursor as to how the rest of the day was going to pan out.

The little incident coming down the rope did create for a less than ideal time of weighing the pups. Salt water coming into contact with an open wounds is never going to be pleasant. But we push through.
We got into things slowly, but soon got a rhythm and before we knew it we were close to finished. Seems Jack and myself are getting pretty good at catching seals, and the time in the gym is good for something. Considerably fitter and stronger than last month, which meant weighing the heavier seals this month was in fact quicker and easier than before.

The bulls are still acting extremely territorial. This meant Jack was out playing defence and poking the bulls with our former broom handle, to keep them at bay, whilst i was playing offence and grabbing hold of the pups and weighing them.
One of the bulls gave a very threatening charge and was getting a bit too close for comfort, which saw Jack giving it a swift knock to the head.
I have to assure you that it is not as terrible as it may sound. If one only sees the way the seals get battered around in the surf and how violently they defend their territory it becomes clear that a knock with a pole is of little concern to the large bulls. It is more the shock that stops than anything else.
Even with the males being kept at bay it still doesn't stop the pups themselves from trying their luck.

They don't come easy.

All of this was seemingly well rewarded when we sat down for a break and saw a cow feeding her pup. First time either of us had seen this, and when looking at how the pups are seemingly left unattended it proved to be a very unique sighting. When Jack mentioned he had never observed this despite having assisted with the seals on Marion Island as well as having been part of a previous Gough expedition a couple years back put into perspective how this is not seen terribly often.

Suckling pup.

All up it was just another normal day on Gough Island, and my fears attached to what happened earlier that day were thankfully not realised. All appendages remain in tact.
We even made it back to the base before the clouds fell prey to the laws of gravity, and further had time to spare before getting started with dinner.

As for the pups themselves. After about a hundred days they are averaging 9.0Kg's.
Males are slightly heavier on average at 9.2Kg's. Heaviest being 15.0Kg's and the lightest 5.1Kg's.
The females averaged 8.0Kg's. With the heftiest also being a solid 15.0Kg's compared to the lightweight which was sitting at 4.0Kg's. Despite it's small size it was still looking healthy and well looked after.

Now we wait till the 10th May when we at it again.
In the meanwhile I will have to keep busy somehow.
Open to suggestions?
Will let you know how they work out.

The clouds roll in.

Long awaited

It was only a matter of time before my ship came in ans I went out.
I never posted anything last week and that's because I wasn't around to do so. Instead I was out camping and enjoying a bit of time away from the confines of the base. Feeling so much better for it.

The evening of Monday the 12th March whilst having a chat about the weather, and the high pressure system that would be passing the island and bringing a few days of good weather with it, our biologists decided that they best take advantage of this window of opportunity and head out into the field for a couple nights to get some work done. And so it was decided that they would head out the next morning.
This was on my first day off and I still had another 4 to go, so I jumped at the opportunity to accompany them. Indeed it was short notice, but that means little to us over here. Not like I had much else planned.

So it was decided. Tuesday morning we would be off to continue the monitoring of the Tristan Albatross population.
Just so there is understanding as to why this is so important, the Tristan Albatross is endangered. It initially bred on both Tristan da Cunha as well as Gough, but over the years the Tristanians hunted the Tristan population to extinction as it was a primary food source for them. So for a many years the only place that the species has bred has been here on Gough. With it being such a small Island the population is limited in the numbers it can reach and those numbers are already very low and decreasing rapidly. What is found here represents the world-wide population of the species. Hence the importance of the conservation and monitoring programme.
The common house mouse which was introduced hundreds of years ago by some of the first settlers on the island has only recently been found to prey on the young chicks.
Once the chicks are old enough the parents leave the chick unattended and both go in search of food. The mice then emerge from their burrows and eat the chicks as they are no longer afforded any protection by their parents. The are unable defend themselves or escape predation from the mice as they cannot stand and escape. They are essentially "sitting ducks". Predation by the common house mouse has explained why there is  such a large failure rate of nests and why the population is dropping so sharply and on the verge of collapse.

Tuesday the 13th March was a bit of an earlier start for me as I had to complete my chores that I would have been required to do on the Wednesday. But this was not a hassle. As i knew that shortly after I was done we would be off for another grand adventure.

So it was at around 11:00 that we left on Tuesday morning. We were headed for Goneydale. But we wouldn't be taking the usual Goneydale path, instead we would be making our way via Tafelkoppie and South Peak. Much to my excitement as I had still not been able to get up South Peak.
Reason behind this route is that there are also a number of Tristan's on Tafelkop, as well as on the hillside leading down from South Peak to Goneydale.
 What we we needed to do this trip was check that all the nests that had been marked at the start of the breeding season were still being occupied and their eggs incubated, as well as identify some of the partners of the breeding pairs that had yet to be observed at the nest. Further the few adult albatrosses that had yet to be marked were also ringed.
The hike was fantastic and the view from South Peak was spectacular. I could not believe I had missed out for so long. Looking out over TK from the one side and then over Goneydale on the other showed each plain in such an incredible light.

Tafelkop from atop South Peak

Goneydale from atop South Peak

The Gough Bunting's seemed to be especially active up top and were dotting all across the rocks and the grass. Always such a pleasure to watch these rare little birds hop about inquisitively in search of food. But there presence was not limited to the top of South Peak, but all over whilst we were working.

Gough Bunting

 

 

 

 

Gough Bunting feeding on  Nertera depressa Fowl Berry

 

 

 

 

We descended down the other side of South Peak which was alarmingly steep, as was the ascent. Thankfully the decent is a made a little bit easier by the soft spongy grass that you sink into as you walk and more often than not, tumble down.

South Peak from the container in Goneydale.

Once we arrived at the container at Goneydale we set up camp and were back to work. We all split up and had an area of nests to check in the breeding grounds. This took us until around 19:30 by which point the sun had it's final rays of light clinging to the horizon and the the wind started to take hold of what was freed up by the light.
Despite our best efforts to keep the gas cooker burning the wind kept snatching away any hopes of having a warm meal and a cup of Milo before bed. So we had to settle on sardines and Provitas. The effort of chewing was minimised thanks to the chattering of teeth caused by the icy wind that was determined to make us miserable.

Our trusty propane/butane gas cooker.

Following morning started off a bit better. The wind let go as the sun reclaimed the day and we were able to keep the gas burner going so we could have a cup of hot Milo.
First order of business was to wish my special someone happy birthday. But how do you do that from the middle of nowhere? Thank goodness for satellite phones! Was able to make a short call and hopefully make the day just that little bit special despite distance. Distance like this really tests one and forces one to get creative and be resourceful in keeping a relationship going.

From there it was off to do some more nest marking and monitoring. Except a bit of a surprise was in store. We would be going to Albatross plain to do this. Such excitement for me, as it was a new part of the island to explore. Sound like an excited child. But I really want to see everything I can on this incredible place. So excitement washes over with every opportunity to see something new, and take in a different view.

Goneydale plain is at the base of 2 main peaks. South Peak and Mount Rowett. Albatross plain lies just over the other side of Mount Rowett which is in picture.

 

Albatross Plain, with Edinburgh Peak in the distance, shrouded in cloud.

A few hours were spent at Albatross Plain recording the coordinates of some of the nests. This to increase the size of the study group for the monitoring programme to allow for greater accuracy of the data obtained from the study. Simple, a larger study group means a more representative sample, means greater accuracy of results.

Sylvain getting nest coordinates in Albatross Plain.

That's why I do these things. Apart from enjoying the hiking and camping, I enjoy the science side and thoroughly enjoy getting involved with it as often as possible. After all, that's why I am here. Well, that's largely why I am here.

Whilst out at Albatross Plain we were fortunate enough to see one or two chicks that had hatched very recently, and were extremely lucky to see one of the chicks that had just broken free of his shell. What an incredible and rare sight this was!

Courtship.

Egg.

 

Hatching.

 

Chick.

 

After the day spent at albatross plain we returned to camp only to discover that one of the GPS units had fallen out Sylvain's bag somewhere along the way. So Sylvain and myself had to make our way back and search the route we had taken and search the nests we had marked to see if we could find the GPS before it was nightfall. This meant some fast paced walking and thorough searching was required before it got too late and the we were caught out in the dark. Sadly all this was to no avail and we were unable to find it.
At least at the end of a long day we were able to enjoy a warm meal as the wind settled just enough for us to keep the gas burner going.

Final day was a slow start. Sylvain however made a mission some time before Karen and myself as he went in search of the illusive GPS. And still it remains out there along the path toward or in Albatross Plain. I personally think that only next years team will find it. But at least it will be found. Always a bright side.
Karen and myself continued with nest checks further away from camp in the Hummocks. There were not many left, but it took a little longer to find them without the help of the GPS to direct us. So having a map and trying to trace your way around that sort of terrain with a print out of locations meant we where there a while longer than expected. The fact that the radio feel out Karen's bag also added to this. Seems it was a trip to test our recovery skills. We decided we would be search for it on our way back to base when we had Sylvain with us and we could cover a larger area.
We made our way back to camp, packed up and started our trip back along the Goneydale path, which we all know very well having walked many times over. Before settling in for the long walk back we all spread across the Hummocks which we have pass through on route to the base, and searched high and low for the lost radio. This time with more success than than was had in locating the GPS. We found it under a fern leaf right next to one of the nests we had checked. Relief washed over Karen's face after she heard it was found, and we were then able to get stuck in to the trip back to base where a good meal and warm shower awaited.
Another successful trip and thoroughly enjoyed.

Your best friend and trusted companion on any walk: Trekking poles. Much time is spent on the ground when walking without them.

Added news, we also celebrated Leonard's birthday on the 11th March.
Had a pirate themed party which was really memorable.
Everyone looked very convincing in there outfits, but no one could come close to Jacks incredible effort. "Captain Jack" indeed! Was good fun and we were all up playing pool until the late hours.
Being on night shifts when there is a party definitely makes the time go by much faster and makes the wait more enjoyably.

Captain Jack.

Captain Jack's ship. "The White Pearl"

The Crew of Sea Dogs

The 9th team member. "The Ostrunting"

Now we wait for the next trip into the mountains and the next party at the base. Or anything else worth writing about.

Head in the clouds

It's tough working in a place so beautiful and having an adventurous spirit. Cause often times you won't be able to satisfy that deep craving for adventure due to work commitments.
Aaaah, responsibility! That thing we pride ourselves on when we actually meet expectation, yet so often want to wish away when it suits us. 

Cirrus cloud capturing the light of the setting sun

And if I am honest this week was one of those. I sit here now, whilst on my first night of night shift, having just finished 5 days of day shift, and I think of Karen, Sylvain and Marius who at this very moment are asleep in their tents having headed out on their expedition to the north of the island to complete the Tristan Albatross census.
Something I am so desperate to do is get to see the northern end of Gough. But, I'm being responsible. I'm doing what I have to do. My work!
At least I can say with certainty that each and every one of you reading has been in this position. Never easy, but always worth it.

So, is there a point to my little story! No, none whatsoever. I do hope it will serve as a satisfactory excuse as to why I have so little to say this week. And further, why I have so few photos.
Because I'm being responsible. Haha :)
Well, it's never done with a grumble or moan. I'm happy to do it. Why should I complain when I get to spend a year with my head in the clouds and be told that's the responsible thing to do.

Sometimes I find it a stretch to find something to write about when I have had a week such as this.
But drawing inspiration from the most arbitrary of things comes with time, and I  came up with something. Clouds!
Makes sense! After all that's a large part of why I am here.
Inspiration this week came in the form of a photo. A photo sent by a good friend, Jonathan, of a particularly interesting cloud which had formed off the coast of Brazil.
A rolling arcus cloud. Which is in fact just your common stratocumulus cloud which has been shaped by wind to give it a truly unique shape.

Inspiration. Rolling arcus cloud.

Funnily enough, the very next day after receiving this photo I saw a cloud which showed the same phenomenon of shaping.  Sadly I was unable to get a photo before it had dissipated. But I'm certain we will see it occur again soon, and hopefully I will be better prepared.
But this did inspire me to share more about the clouds we observe here. So I will keep a close watch for the really spectacular ones and share them as and when they are observed.
It may sound dull to many of you, so I will keep it to a minimum, but hopefully it will spark an interest in the puffy marshmallows that we all enjoy making shapes of when we lie on the grass and watch the world go bye.

With the change of season we should be seeing a very diverse display of cloud types forming and some of the light phenomena that are associated with them. So I will be keeping a close watch on this and will try and show exactly what it is like for one to live with their "head in the clouds".

So next time you hear someone making use of this charming expression, just think of the beauty and the science that they find themselves surrounded by.
Makes you think that maybe it's not such a bad thing. As for me, I'm happy to admit I've got my head in the clouds. And hopefully, in time, I will be able to persuade a few of you to join me. 

Condensation trail (contrail) fromed by the SAA plane we see twice a week.

Cirrocumulus