Island superhero

I found it quite ironic that the movie "The Avengers" was released this week, especially with what happened on one cold and wet day.

This week I got to play civilian sidekick to our very own Superheros. The Superman and Invisible woman of Gough Island:  Sylvain and Karen. AKA Birdman and Bird Girl.
Creative names right? Alright then, not really. But at least they accurate.
Let me recount the story. All you need to do is imagine the animations and insert the sounds that should accompany this comic. Cause sadly I forgot my camera this time round. But you'll understand why it would have been tricky to take any pictures as you read.

Whilst sitting in the met office staring out over the vastness of the ocean, I was startled by the appearance of Birdman appear in the window. A courteous greeting in place and he was into explaining how one of the Molly's (Yellow Nosed Albatross) that was fledging hadn't really done so successfully, and was now sitting at the bottom of seal beach, surrounded by several large seals, and at great risk of having one of the waves; that was steadily increasing in size, come crashing down over it.

Birdman then asked if I would be keen to go down with him and help out in rescuing it.

Well, I wasn't doing much else. So thought to myself: "The molly needs us. I must do something to help." And then there was the fact that I have always wanted to be a superhero and swoop down and come to the rescue. Sidekick would be a step in the right direction surely?! A good place to start?

So it was with great urgency that a jumped out of my chair and raced to get suited up. Ready in my superhero outfit I meet up with Birdman out the front of the base (read hideout). He was ready and waiting. Large back pack over the shoulders we set off on the path to Seal beach where we were greeted by Bird Girl; who was patiently sitting in the drizzle keeping an eye on the young molly and all the villainous seals and waves that were holding it captive.

We discussed our plan of action and then begun descending the access rope where we knew we would have a large contingency of seals waiting to stop us.

Upon our arrival we had to navigate our way across the slippery rocks amongst the sneaky seals. They seemed determined to stop us. Fortunately Birdman had his secret weapon with him. A large wooden pole that the seals feared. They all went flopping about toward the safety of the ocean as we made our advance

All was going well until we realised the commotion caused by the small, blubbery, stampede was startling the molly we were down to rescue. Slowing our movements and stealthily moving amongst the seals reduced the disturbance and allowed us to stalk the bird which had once again calmed down.

We needed to stalk the bird and flank it in order for the rescue to be successful, but as it was perched on a rock close to the crashing waves, it wasn’t as easy as we initially thought.

We had to cross the river that was flowing quite rapidly due to all the rain, and then climb up a couple rocks with the waves nipping away only a foot or two bellow us.

We were then in position with the bird still relatively calm. Our next challenge was to grab hold of young molly without disturbing the seals that were surrounding it. These seemed to be the guards that we had to get past for the rescue to be a success . So we slowly coaxed the guards out of the way, being as careful as possible not to stress out our helpless victim. Once we felt there was no longer a threat, Birdman and I took our positions. Before a seal could even bark out, Birdman had darted forward and grabbed hold of the young Molly with daring speed and agility. The same skill and agility that a real superhero possess.

The molly was gently bundled into the back pack we had brought with and we begun the walk back. Being as careful as possible not to slip and become vulnerable to the large seals that were flopping about around us.

We arrived at the base of the embankment and swiftly made our way back up the access rope leaving behind the barking of the defeated seals and villainous waves. 

We proceeded to scout out a safe spot where we could release the rescued molly in the hope that it could get this next attempt at flying right.

Once we found a decent clearing we lay the pack down on the ground and begun opening it up. The young bird was then poking it's head out and trying to wriggle free whilst I was still trying to open the bag. This was much to it's disapproval and he soon had my glove in it's beak and was trying with all it's might to tear it apart. Eventually the bag was opened and the courageous albatross was waddling out onto the grass ready to give flying another go.

We can only hope it was able to get it right the second time around.

And that was how I got to experience being a superhero this week.

Perhaps I will be called on again soon!

Nope, we didn't find what we were looking for.

We had been waiting so patiently for just a little break in the rain and wind, and for a day of sunshine.
Couldn't have come soon enough. And it came in abundance!
Two solid days of the sun rushing down on the island with it's glorious rays pulsing toward the island, in much the same manner the waves of the sea had been relentlessly pounding away at the same piece of rock just hours before.
How could we look out of the window at this beautiful scene that had unfolded before our eyes and not go rushing out. It was as if the suns light was calling us out from the darkness of our caves.
And just like bats who had been hanging upside down and had all the blood rush to there heads, so it was the same for us in our sleep deprived state. Eyes still burning red, and bloodshot, with sleep still holding a hazy glaze across them, we were called out and answered with a resounding YES! It was almost instinctive. You see the sun and you just go running. You literally want to head for the hills. And why not? The hills around here offer some of the most spectacular landscape, and panoramic ocean views I have ever seen.

One of the many astounding views.

The sun was barking out orders for the day and we came running. It was calling us to the plains and the hills. Toward "Serengeti" and "960"!

Eventually the haze left our eyes and Jack and myself were heading along the path toward Tafelkop, on our way to Serengeti.
It follows much the same route until about half way. When you eventually come to a small waterfall and you have to peel of the well established TK path and carve your own. Easier said than done!

Making your own path through thick waist high plants is a rather tall order. They roots and stems seem to taunt and tese as they threaten your ankles and legs with ferocious tenacity, in their attempt to trip you up and grab hold of the rest of your flailing limbs as you come crashing down like a boxer, who has just been knocked out. The arms may shoot out to try and stop the impact, but they quickly get lost amongst the growth that pulled you down in the first place and there purpose seems lost. And even if the arms were to reach the ground, there is still the likelihood that you will have one of your arms going shoulder deep into a bird burrow. So either way, you are bound to indulge in a little bit of island produce as you get a mouth full of greenery.
But this is just part of what makes this place so special. You may be cursing the ground you fall on, but once you back up you start ranting and raving and singing the greatest praise about the ground you walk on. How contradictory. But is life not just such a contradiction in itself. Wherever we go contradiction follows us. And we embrace it and run with it freely.
In the same way that contradiction carries you toward so many weird and wonderful experiences in life, so it has been the same on all our walks we have undertaken here on Gough.

All was going great and there had been very little cursing of the ground and we eventually arrived at the top of 960. Looking out from the top of the hill we assessed where we were and tried to figure out our next move so we could get down to Serengeti.
Turning to Jack with an inquisitive look I asked: So where is Serengeti?

Jack surveying the land from atop 960.

It was a valid question
Jack had mentioned Serengeti as he had heard some of the previous teams members talk about it, and thought it a good idea to try find it with the vague directions he was given.
And this is where I say, I really had very little idea of where it was and was just hoping for the best.
After much deliberation, and me staring out with a blank look not really knowing what we were looking for. So we soon agreed to plonk ourselves down and take a lunch break, in the same growth that had just moments before been trying to pull us into it's menacing roots.
With conversations about life, love and everything in between going on, we soon lost track of time and decided that maybe we wouldn't find Serengeti today. It would have to wait for another day. Ah well, still it was an enjoyable time up top of 960.

View from 960, toward where we think Serengeti is.

We didn't quite call it a day though. Even though we decided not to try for Serengeti there was still time to look for something else. So we set off down 960 towards the coast. Where we had initially come up from the north side, we were now heading down the south side toward the coast with it's spectacular sea cliffs and sea stacks.

Looking South West from 960 toward Richmond Hill and Tumbledown (Base just out of picture on the left)

Walking down is no different to walking up. Just that gravity helps move you a little faster and makes it that much easier to get snagged in the growth. But it definitely keeps things amusing.
Heading down this way we ended up coming around the other side of another favourite spot, with a immense view of some impressive sea stacks. Welcome to Admirals!

On the edge of a sea cliff on the Easterly side of Admirals with the base in sight.

Where we normally approach Admirals from the west when we take the short walk from the base, we were now coming at it from a more easterly direction which added a whole new dimension as we got to see the other side of things and also stare out over the base in the distance.

A new view of the base.

Walking along the coast above the mighty sea cliffs is rather intimidating but so rewarding. As you walk along you hear the sounds of the seals bellow, all barking in chorus as the sooty albatross rides the thermals high above them and acts as conductor to the choir of seals below.
Natures very own musical perfectly recited as if meticulously rehearsed.
It all just comes together so naturally and perfectly. All instinctive, and all enchanting.

A Sooty albatross conducting the "choir" way down below.

As we rounded the final edge of the undulating coastline, before arriving at the usual spot where one would sit to enjoy the performance, we had to navigate our way through a maize of philica trees which had grown in a shallow gully. The twisted limbs creating a spiderweb of confusion. We clambered over trunks and limbs that ran in all directions to try get through this forest and out the other side, where simpler, less challenging terrain, and a well forged path waited paitieantly to greet us.

Looking out over Admirals at the start of the Philica forest.

We navigated the twisted mess and where on the path and on our way back to the base after a relaxed stroll in the hills, only to close on trip over Sylvain who almost had his head buried in the ground.
We soon found Karen lurking behind the bushes and she explained what Sylvain was doing.
He was using the burrow scope to check the burrows of the burrowing birds. Basically a wireless camera on a length of flexible tubing.

The burrow scope is inserted into the burrow and as it winds along all the contours towards where the birds -usually Burrowing Petrels- would be found. It transmits the feed to a receiver which houses a small LCD screen which shows what is going on right under our feet.

Sylvain inspecting one of the burrows.

Sylvain was kind enough to allow Jack and myself to each have a go at trying to locate the birds in their burrows. Not as easy as one might think.
The burrows go in any number of different directions and this sees your arm buried right up to the shoulder as you try and navigate the scope through the plethora of well crafted twists and turns.
Another wonder of this lost paradise.

Jack trying his hand or arm, at the burrow inspections

After our valiant attempts at checking burrows and in doing so, voluntarily succumbing to the islands continued attempts to have us face down in the dirt, we eventually made our way back to the base where we awaited the next day of sunshine.
Little did we know that it would be the very next day.

Having discussed what we could cook in the next couple of days and the prospect of going fishing the next day, the sun greeted us once again and we set off. Hand-lines, bait and the mandatory snacks packed we got the gumboots on and headed down to Snoekgat where we hoped to catch the following evenings dinner.
We made our way down the rope ladders and rocks and had a couple seals barking and saw them go splashing into the water to mark our arrival.
We quickly got our lines ready and they were out in the water. The tide only gently pushing up against the rocks as we waited no more than 5 minutes for Jack to pull out his first fish. A little bit small it was so he went back in.
But this fortunately, did not set the tone for the day. And before we knew it we had pulled in three decent size Jacopewer and two sizable Five Fingers. What a great day it was turning out to be. And we had only been on the waters edge for little over 2 hours.

Jacopewer

 

 

Five Finger

But eventually something had to give. And as the tide pushed against the rocks, so it was that my hook got dragged along with the water as i tried to bring up my line. And just as quick as those fish would bite hold of the hook, so it was that the the rocks had done the same. Sadly I had to cut my losses and sacrifice my hook and sinker to the vast expanse of the ocean, and watch as Jack pulled in the last two fish for the day. A hefty 500g Jacopewer,  followed by a monstrous, Five Finger; which was double the size of the two that I had pulled in just a little while earlier. He weighed in at a solid 1.2kg's and was going to do just great  at dinner the following evening.

Jack with the impressive Five Finger that he caught.

The fish were filleted, then basted in a mouthwatering apricot jam and garlic butter sauce whilst they were slowly cooked over the coals and then served on a bed of rice.

This was the perfect way to end a fantastic couple days that were by far some of the most memorable moments I have had so far.

Even though we may not have found what we were looking for at the start, we still made the most of it and found plenty other island treasures.

We have all grown so attached to our precious home in the middle of nowhere.

It's getting very quiet lately

With winter nestling in it is getting rather cold, wet, and windy and opportunity to head out is running thin.
So this week was once again spent in the confines of the base where it is slightly warmer.

There has however been much chatter amongst the team about the S.A. Agulhas II which departed Finland's shipyards on the 5th April after successful sea trials were conducted in  the Bay of Bothnia, Finland. The S. A. Agulhas II is expected to arrive in Cape Town on the 3rd May.

The new ship will be replacing the ageing S.A. Agulhas, which departed for Marion Island on the 12th April, for what is the "Big Red Taxi's" final voyage  before going into retirement.

The Agulhas II will be making it's first official voyage in October, when she departs Cape Town on route to Tristan da Cunha and Gough where we will be anxiously awaiting her arrival..
Rather exciting to think that we were able to experience the old ship on our departure, and will be able to experience the new ship on our return. We have all mentioned amongst ourselves how very fortunate we are to be in such a position.

For those interested you can read a little bit about each vessel here:

S._A._Agulhas

S._A._Agulhas_II

S. A. Agulhas Maiden Voyage Captains Log

As for Island happenings that pretty much covers it.
Very quiet as of late and there is a strong likelihood that it will be similar now that winter has arrived.

So will have to wait and see what opportunities spring up.

A couple pictures of the S. A. Agulhas before our departure as well as on our way over. First and last time for many of us!

Moments of relaxation

All I have managed to do this week is read, work, and watch a couple movies.
Personally I enjoyed every second of it! It's taken some time, but I am finally getting used to the idea of relaxing.
Something I will hopefully not soon forget.
Being able to truly relax and let go of all the little things that trouble us is a skill that one has to learn. And I am finally grasping hold of that truth.
Things are always clearer when they are not shrouded by worry and anxiety. And that always makes dealing with those concerns so much simpler and effective.
Freedom from worry and complete relaxation.
So many lessons have been learned!

Interspersed amongst this week of R&R we did squeeze in a smidgen of work, apart from my usual weather observations. We managed to re stock our pantry for the next 6 months. Just like everyone else, we are also required to visit our local supermarket and load up a trolley full of essentials. 6 months worth of essentials for 8 individuals means there is a fair bit that needs to be carted. 

"Waaintjie" Rather heavy when fully laden.

Just like at home we simply load our groceries into our sizable trolley and cart it up the hill from the food store to the base, where it is unloaded and packed away into the kitchen pantry. Easy enough right? Well if we consider the distance that we haul this load and take into account the fairly severe gradient that we have to tackle, compounded with the weight of the load load it begins to tell a bit of a different story. And then this is repeated about 4 or 5 times.
Thankfully, Marius fitted some breaks to the "waaintjie" so we can take a breather half way up and not worry about the trolley getting away from us. And the break is definitely needed!

Looking over the food store from the base.

 We also dedicated a day to visiting a few of the spots close to the base which could provide the perfect backdrop for what would become our team photo. Several sites were visited and many photographs taken. One of which will be framed, and hung on the wall in the bar to join the other faces that stare out and whisper their story to all the inquisitive eyes that fall upon them.

We have all spent many nights staring at the previous teams photos, and thinking to ourselves how few people have actually visited this incredible place. And always we arrive at the same closing thought:  How monumentally fortunate we are to visit this small speck of land which is swallowed up by the vastness of the ocean that surrounds it. A place that so few even  know exists. A seemingly forgotten land. With all of it's astounding beauty and the wealth of unique fauna and flora that is found here. How fortunate indeed!

I hope the teams that follow and carry on this incredible tradition will see our photo, see our faces amongst those that were here before us, and have the same realisation as we did, and never lose sight of what a privilege and honour it is to be here on Gough Island.
These moments need to be treasured, celebrated and shared.

We are still to decide which team photo we will be using. Here are the ones that didn't quite make the grade. Sadly I can't share the ones that are in contention for top spot. That's a surprise for when it goes up on the wall.





 



 

With it having been such a quiet week and not really having left the base i don't have much else to share.
But I do have something all of us over here have been waiting for. And silently dreading! But perhaps it will give everyone a little laugh and an idea of what we all think.
Here is the link to a short video clip of the team on GO/WEG Magazine's website.
During our training in Cape Town one of their reporters followed us around and interviewed the team to try and answer the question: "What kind of person do you need to be to stay on isolated island for a year?"

Enjoy.