It's a small island indeed

Finally I got a chance to head out, stretch the legs and camp out under the stars... pity I couldn't see them. Pesky clouds!

Gonydale leading toward Michael's Col  (central ridge) and South Rowett of Mount Rowett (peak on left)

Well my time came as I expected.
Last week Sunday I was again approached by Karen and Sylvain who had plans on heading out on the Monday for a little holiday camping trip to the north of the island. Finally I was off and I could relieve the cabin fever that had so tightly gripped me for the past couple weeks.
They checked out the weather forecasts and explained that there was a high that was going to be lingering over us for the next couple days, so best we take advantage of the good weather.

The next morning, feeling bright eyed and bushy tailed with my excitement being almost tangible I got the backpack loaded and off we went. Starting along the Gonydale path we would make our way toward the centre of the island to Waterfall Camp which sits at the base of Edinburgh Peak. The highest point on the island, and the real reason for my hike.
We had planned on spending 3 days and would be back on Wednesday evening.
But as we got on our way and got further up into the hills we slowly found ourselves getting wetter and wetter and could not see much more than 20 meters in front of us. The mist was hanging low. But we persevered and got up to Gonydale just a little less chipper than when we left. We pushed on over Gonydale and started our way up Michael's Cole, where we eventually decided to turn back and see if the weather improved.

Gonydale and Mount Rowett

Yes we had hiked all that way lugging our packs and then decided to call it off.
Once we were at Michael's Cole we sat and assessed the situation. It didn't look like the mist would be lifting anytime soon, and the rain was coming down harder the further up we went.
So we weighed up all the pros and cons and decided that a trip in this sort of weather would not be worth it, and would leave all of us feeling rather disappointed. So instead of attempting to tackle the next couple hours of hiking in a state of unfulfilled grumpiness we turned back. But, not before we resolved that we might venture out again in a day or two's time. After all the forecast called for very little cloud cover.

Thank goodness none of us unpacked and we were all ready to go. Cause after a day's rest we all got kitted up again and had our packs slung over our shoulders and we were off again. Round 2, here we come!
We set off once again over the familiar Gonydale path with the sun coming through the scattered clouds. Things were looking good!
Again we moved over Gonydale and up Michael's Col, covering familiar terrain. Once at Michael's Col we shifted west and worked hard to get up the first of many steep slopes as we climbed up Mount Rowett's steep embankment. We then ventured north along the ridge of Mount Rowett as we pushed hard towards the north.

View from up top Mount Rowett

 The brief respite from the steep embankments was a welcome relief, but we now started to feel the cold chill of the westerly wind and soon realised that the clouds had moved back in. Things weren't looking so good and visibility was once again diminished. Although this seemed to be rather intermittent. And we had come this far, and weren't going to turn back again. After all the visibility could improve still. All we needed was for the cloud base to lift or completely disappear.
We trudged along the path in good spirits. The weight of the pack lifted by the mood of being out in these beautiful surrounds.
Once at North Rowett we had a shallow decent onto Windy Ridge, where we all noticed our packs again. As per the name, the wind really howls up here. The cumbersome packs were acting as large sails pulling us over under the imposed weight of the strong westerly wind.
We eventually found some shelter around some rocks and took a well deserved break, before setting off for the last short stint to Waterfall Camp where we would settle in for an early night.

Waterfall Camp

 

Sunrise at our camp

The following day saw us wake up with the wind chill still lashing out like an angry mob. Cutting through the layers, the only way to warm up was to get walking.
The plan when we left for the trip was to summit Edinburgh Peak, but the forecasters clearly got it wrong and the peak was still caught in the grips of the low hanging clouds. We then went out to explore the northern and western ends of the island an take in the incredible views even if they were very intermittent.

The northern end of the island is unlike anything else I have seen before. From the huge pools of water at Tarn Moss to the innocuous rocky outcrop that just comes out of nowhere which forms
Barren Dome, all the way through to to ridiculous rock formations that dot the landscape all around the western hills, particularly expedition peak.

Barren Dome

Tarn Moss

 

 

Rock formation around Expedition Peak

The valleys drop down for hundreds of meters as the rivers continually carve out their lines towards the vast expanse of the South Atlantic.

One of the many great views, and the source of a river.

 Wandering this end of the island where so few have been, sinking waist deep into the peat moss, walking delicately so as not to loose your boots as they get sucked into the marshy mires, slaving up the steep hillsides and over slippery rocky surfaces all the time whilst braving the bitter wind. This trip really reinforced what an incredible opportunity coming to Gough has been.
Having read the account of the first scientific expedition,  and having now seen much of what was written about has left me with such a great fondness for this hidden gem, and a new appreciation for the challenges faced by the teams who had only the most basic, and by today's standards, rudimentary gear.
What a magnificent experience this has been.

The return trip was as comical and enjoyable as the outbound. Seeing us once again tumbling down small embankments as we crossed over the many streams and sinking into the mires and wrestle to get ourselves out.
A new route was chosen for the return, along the western side of the island, back until Gonydale.
The western slope of Mount Rowett descends down into Albatross Plane, which then rises up to the peak of Low Hump.
We went far around from where we initially ventured and rose up the western side and the steepest face Low hump has on offer. Walking along the most treacherous slippery rock surface with shale-like fragments constantly threatening to take our feet out from beneath us, and send us over to serious injury was exhilarating. Reaching the top to peer over Albatross Plane and look upwards to the peak of Mount Rowett which we had walked just the day before was a welcome relief from the slope that lay behind.
Slowly coming down Low hump onto the base of Mount Rowett saw us land on familiar ground and brought us back around to Gonydale where we could look back at the vast distances we had just covered.

Footprints in the moss

Sometimes the prints go a good two feet deep

My most exciting trip to date, and definitely one in which we covered the most ground and allowed me to appreciate the island in all it's glory.
I have developed such a strong attachment to my unique home, and will be truly saddened as I watch  it fade into the distance when we sail back home.
Will just have to remind myself that many more spectacular adventures await!